laminate 2 cereal boxes that should be good enough). ⢠Some thinner ... each shape of a section first and then test fit and then finally glue. Most folds will be and.
This model is a very vanilla paper version of the Leviathan Crusader resin model from www.dreamforge-games.com. WARNING: These instructions may contain humor! But read everything first if you want the best chances of succeeding, at least at building this model. Recommended item list: • Lots of regular paper for printing (this will end up in the garbage) • Spray adhesive (you want to buy the crappy stuff that doesn’t stick overly well, you’ll see why later -OR- you can buy the REALLY good stuff and pray it does stick really well) • Lots of cardstock of about 1-1.5mm (not sure if a cereal box will cut it, but if you laminate 2 cereal boxes that should be good enough) • Some thinner cardstock for doing roves and the like, 1mm maybe. (The turret roves tend to have more detail and are more complex I did them in thinner stock to make it easier) • Lots of glue (I like tacky glue because it’s thick and flexible when dry) • Lots of sharp cutting blades (I used the snap-off-able small box cutter blade) • Dull scoring blade (I used a pretty dull blade to score 75-85% of the way through on fold lines) • 4 halves of ping-pong balls (I cut 2 balls in half successfully) • 4 metal washers of 1 7/8” outer and 1” inner and about 1mm thick (I happened to have these laying about in the garage) • Polyurethane glue (this worked best for me after trial and error) • A number of rubber bands, prefers the ones that are about ¼” wide and maybe 3-4” long. (I needed quite few as mine kept breaking due to age. So remember kids always use your rubber bands or they might break and go limp with age and lack of use!) • Free time (I’m still looking for the store that I can buy more of it) To start I used cardstock that is about 1.5mm thick and lots of tacky glue. There will be a few pieces that may not fit 100% but that is where a little extra tacky glue saves the day. This model is for the most part made of mostly simple geometric shapes. Ideally you will build each shape of a section first and then test fit and then finally glue. Most folds will be and outer score. There will be a few places that would require an inner scoring, And I would recommend that you instead do a beveled edge to the score line on the outside face. As well, there are some parts with numbers. These numbers correspond to the same number on another part. The number represents a solid object that had to be separated onto 2 or more sheets of printed-paper. When the pieces are cut out the numbered sides should be glued together. Another thing I ran into is that if I left he printed paper on the cardstock, the moisture from the tacky glue would be enough to make the paper peel away from the cardstock. So I decided that from that point on I only lightly apply the spray adhesive and then peel off the paper after cutting and scoring. This should all make sense in time… I started from the bottom up (by sections), but it really doesn’t matter just as long as you do one section at a time. Legs: Special instructions • Print leg set twice (once for each leg) • Special instructions for upper leg cylinder construction
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1. For the 3 small cylinders; score and bevel the fold lines and fold each inside out so that the scores/bevels are on the inside (see image Leg_1.1) The red is the cardstock, the black lines are the score lines and the white cutouts are the bevels that were cut in to be able to fold the side in on itself. 2. The end circles should be the same diameter as the cylinder when glued on Construct each piece before any assembly
The foot is comprised of a squat cylinder, 4 toe bits and a ping-pong ball half. (see image Leg_1.2) • Glue the 4 toes as indicated by the image. • Glue a ping-pong ball half to the center of the top of the foot, indicated in orange in the image. I used polyurethane glue for this. The shin part is really just a conical cylinder and the outer armor bit is an upside down cup. • Take the larger side of the inner shin cylinder and mount the metal washer to the middle of the face. (see image Leg_1.3) The blue represents the washer. • Once dry cut out the cardstock from the middle of the washer to make a 1” hole. • Now glue the small end of the cylinder into the center of the shin armor. The upper leg will be the least fitting part of the entire model, I think. With the inside-out cylinders and the alignment issues, it should be fun! (see image Leg_1.4) • The green lines indicate a flush glued surface • The red lines indicate a surface that is not so flush (this is where feeding extra glue can help) • You will also mount a washer to the face of the topmost cylinder in the same method as the shin, removing the center when dry represented in blue. Okay first leg done. DO NOT GLUE THE ANKLE JOINT YET! Repeat all steps for the other leg but put the washer at the top of the leg on the other side.
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